Road: 700c Enve SES AR 4.5 w/28c Schwalbe pro one. Anyway, thanks for sharing your ideas at this level of details. If you want to go faster, choose wheels with deep-section rims; aerodynamics is far more important than weight. I’m a road rider and I’ve just bought a 3T Strada with 1 x Sram Force 50t up front and a 11/32 cassette (it has the 3T Discus Team Carbon wheels if that info helps). share. In 20 years it’s going to be one of those classic “I had one of those! I *think* that this issue is one you solve with spacers for the disks but have never faced this myself. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Speaking of Gravel bikes, not all cyclists have a clear idea about which wheels are recommended. Thanks Gerard. In truth, they sit somewhere between the two. Even your medium cage derailleur can do a lot if the chain length is adjusted accordingly. What’s your steel gravel bike? Our sister site for road bikes... road.cc Our sister site for e-bikes... ebiketips.co.uk espresso. Cost-wise there's very little difference when buying new - you'll get similar quality at similar price points. The internt loves to have the hot take of being above the marketing scams of a big faceless "industry". The other has 35mm gravelkings, so not slick at all. Ordinary limestone gravel is not particularly hazardous to tires (though gravel composed of, say, crushed volcanic rock might be a problem). As described there are a lot of options, but below is an overview to show the general direction. Paved road one day, off-road the next. I think as my fitness improves, I’d like to join them for their novice level rides. Bottom line, pretty much any new bike is going to be pretty nice these days! What that chain length should be depends on your rear derailleur. Gravel will usually have higher gearing than endurance road. So much more comfortable if you ever have to walk your bike or stroll across a terrace with your (Italian!) The end caps can be swapped to fit all popular gravel/road bike axle options and the wheels come with spare spokes as well as tubeless valves and centerlock / six-bolt adaptors. Some may be more race-oriented, some more for the toughest terrain, etc. So having more closely spaced gears allows you to dial in your cadence better. I am not sure there is a general rule to be distilled from that, sorry (if only life were simple!). Especially if you go for carbon rims, get at least a 23mm rim, so you can use a 28mm tire but also a 40mm tire if you ever want to. As it stands, this tire is a contender for both your road option but also as your one-tire-for-all option (if you don’t live in an area with very sharp gravel or tons of mud). Well, the rim weight is important but relatively low compared to the tire when we’re talking these type of bikes. If you're set on getting an actual 2nd set of wheels (rim and hub and spokes) and not just a 2nd set of tires, I'd actually recommend the Salsa Journeyman Sora 650B, it comes with smaller 650B wheels, which can accommodate much wider tires - in the case of the Journeyman 650, the tires are 2.1" compared to the Journeyman 700's 37mm tires, so you'd have some pretty great off-road tires. That all depends on your strength. I would like to buy a 700c road wheelset for that bike (my bike does take both). The question is about the 11-39 setup. My setup was done as follows: I installed the chain with the 10-50t on the bike. Hi Gerard, for the road wheels on flat/ rolling you recommend 11-36.. with what size chainring would you say ? I’m from the Netherlands. quick question. Another vote for gravel bike with road wheels. If that’s not the case, then you can use some spacers to realign the rotors on one of the wheelsets to match the other. Will you get a standard road bar or a gravel bar? If possible get a bike with a thru axle, quick release and disc brakes tend to be kinda fussy (at least for me). One general comment is that I would urge you to consider 650b wheels and tires for this setup if you live in an area with tough terrain (or travel to such places regularly). I am pretty good at tuning, I have been working on my own bikes for a very long time. So, I’d like to get my gravel bike out there on the road rides with some road slicks to see if I can keep up and avoid having to get a new road bike. If it is just a matter of the matching of rotor and pad, then usually this issue goes away when both rotors are worn in (I presume they are similar rotors, not that one of them is carbon or something else crazy). And of course in general, on the road you have a more even pace, so you may spend a long time in a particular speed and dialing in the cadence has merit. Thanks. Do you have any advice as to the best way to achieve this? But you can also do some further tweaking yourself, based on your riding style and locations. To maintain traction, keep most of your weight over your back wheel as much as possible by staying seated. Expect anything up to 47c on either 700c or 650b wheels. For the money I could get more and the ability to run gravel tires if I want. Of course you can move around a few percent here and there by going with a 46T ring for example, or sticking with an 11-40 cassette, etc. It’s corrected now, so 10-33T for road, 10-36T for off-road. Which Gravel frame/bike should I focus on, Open U. P or 3T? The longer wheelbase on the gravel bike will help you to control your stability while riding. Even with the same gravel tires, a good set of gravel bike wheels will give you better speed, control, handling, confidence, comfort, and enjoyment than road bike wheels on all of those unpaved surfaces we now call “gravel”. Beyond that, gearing will make the most difference. You can argue (I usually do) that you can afford a smaller top gear on gravel too, and thus the range you need remains the same off-road and on-road. I like your article and it helps me a lot. If you are looking for wheels to spin well even when dirty, do the “opposite spin test”. I want a new bike which is primarily a winter trainer but has the option to go off road once a month or so. Not a stupid question at all. Thanks! Really looking forward for your words about the “one setup for everything”. Are there other methods i can try, it is a 6-bolt so as you mentioned it’s more challenging. Furthermore, the lock ring has to have enough clearance with the fork & frame. And that can mean a lot of fun and a fresh look at where and how you ride.A gravel bike can raise a smile in so many ways… there are lots of I switch to carbon wheels with road tyres but I have done road rides with gravel tyres on and they are ok but a bit more of a workout. Nothing wrong with the bike. I use the provided plastic b screw template to determine b screw adjustment. I have a steel gravel bike and love everything about it. Please note, I’m not connected to Panaracer or Sigma in any way!! 42t chainring. Kona would be third. If you get a second set of the same model rotors on your second wheelset, you end up with the same situation. I’ll have to check it out once it’s available. As a DT Swiss ratchet enthousiast I would like your opinion on the 3T hubs (engagement, stiffness, durability). 3. I started looking and I ended up with a Canyon Endurace. I thought you meant the SK version. So this is not an alignment issue, the pads do not touch the rotors without the brake lever applied (that sometimes happens too if the two wheel sets you have are different brands – there are spacers that can solve that so you can move one rotor over a bit until it matches the position of the other rotor). Gravel will usually have clearance for 40mm or more tires as opposed to 30-32mm with road endurance. Instead of changing the smaller gear I went for a different top gear, as I wanted to keep up with road group rides on descents and still have a 1:1 gear for long climbs with double digit gradients. Or are there big constraints with 26 inch other than the limited wheel and tire availability? The best gravel and adventure bike wheels are light, stiff and durable. It’s important to make sure there are enough threads on the lock ring to let it clamp down securely. Here’s a link to a picture of it and info:- https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/images/gravel/item_img04_tc.jpg https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Panaracer/GravelKing-Folding-TLC-Clincher-Tyre/EZ65. I often see people spec 28mm or even 25mm tires on their “road wheels”. Cross bike with 32mm tires. With the recent flood of 650B gravel/adventure bikes coming to market, and 47-50mm road plus tires surging in popularity, you might be interested in purchasing a new 650B rig or converting the 700C bike you already have. A few will let you squeeze in something in the low 30s (but don't expect to have any mud clearance). Both also have tan sidewalls. off-road.cc is dedicated to bringing you the best coverage of all off-road riding. I presume you want to know if you can make that work without having to adjust the chain length and rear derailleur setting? Another vote for gravel bike with road wheels. Wheels. Want better on-road performance than you’ve ever had? If you throw roadworthy tires on a gravel bike, it's practically a heavy boat of a road bike at that point. Great “pure road” tires to consider are the Pirelli Cinturato 35mm, the WTB Exposure (in a variety of widths), the Continental GP 5000 (Tubeless) 32mm (it fits big, 34.2mm on our Discus 45 | 32 carbon wheels) or the Schwalbe Durano 32mm. The biggest problem is that the skinny tires will not handle loose gravel well at all. Maybe one thing. The whole principle of the two different rim sizes is that the small 650b rim with the big tire gets you the same tire radius as the big 700c rim with the small tire. What a faff…. It's all about feel and you can't get a sense for the subtle differences in geometry until you get your butt in the saddle. And how about the rim weight? The b screw stops contacting the hangar (no more range) before the pulley can get close enough to the cassette. Don’t waste your money on ceramic bearings. Swapping rotors won’t help or hurt, it’s just work. If you have two wheelset, the gearing you put on each of them can make the process of swapping back and forth easy or difficult. Since I ride the Exploro LTD frameset, the Torno cranks and these wheels, it feels like a good holistic design. If your idea of gravel is a decently maintained dirt or gravel road, a road bike will be fine. That will increase their durability with the sort of riding an Exploro lets you do. In other words, an MTB crank on an MTB frame. I have a road bike with 28s. Salsa is good if you want to add a front rack, air pump, or bottle cages on the fork due to plenty of mid-blade eyelets. Curious to hear what you have to say about you’re preferred wheels. I’m not a fan of Cannondale. Mountain bike, bikepacking and gravel bikes. Expense often equals weight savings, and for your 650b setup you likely want durability more than lightweight. So focus on a bigger rim width (there are still mountain bike wheels with 19mm inner rim width (you don’t want those!!) Stock road and gravel bike wheels are often heavy and of mediocre quality — upgrading can reduce weight and improve reliability. In that particular case with that chain length and that derailleur, those two cassettes work. A gravel bike is slower although there is not much difference in the weight of the frame. – obviously I’d like to spend as little as possible as I’ve just bought a bike but equally I want to get it right above all else. I may be biased (I am! Take a chainline of 47mm, that would leave 11.5mm of space. I'd say get the Kona. In that space you need to put: tire clearance to the chain stay (supposedly 6mm but at least 4mm), clearance between chainstay and chainring (at least 2mm) and half the thickness of the chainring (1.5mm). If the seals are tight when you buy the wheels, they will settle in during the first 100km and seal well for a long time. A cassette starting with a 9t cog needs a smaller chainring for the same top gear. I then assumed that the 11-39 would work with a b screw adjustment even though the chain might be a little long. Just follow the instructions in that article. The beauty of this solution is that it’s all in the cassette, which is affixed to the wheels you’re changing out anyway (you have two separate wheel sets for this, remember). Anyway, we’ll have some more information about these setups in a future post, still testing. You also have the option to have multiple sets of wheels with your gravel bike. But forget about the “oooh this spins so nicely” approach. Eventually you can decide if it’s worth it to you to get a second wheel set. All road bikes are designed around 700c wheels but gravel bikes are commonly being designed to be compatible with the smaller 650b wheel sizes, which offers the advantage of running a bigger volume tyre for more comfort and traction but the overall diameter being no … Hi Gerard, this is more a gearing question than a on/off road question. It'll be more comfortable on a gravel bike around town when roads are crap or if you need to carry any loads on your bike compared to a road bike. First a caveat, if the wheel stops spinning quickly because the bearings feel rough, that’s bad. preferably tan wall ones. Clearly that would be a chainstay with no stiffness and no strength. The most visually striking difference between a road and gravel bike will be the wheels and tyres. Couple things to consider about the bikes your looking at: If your looking to do club rides only the Kona has compact road gearing (50-34 chainrings, 11-34 cassette) the other two bikes have "gravel/cyclocross" gearing (46-30 chainrings, 11-34 cassette). But there is some thoughts that I can’t decide about, maybe wrong forum!?! Depending on the range you need you may have to experiment a bit, since not every cassette ratio you want exists. Do you think the spacer would be my solution? So would something like a CAADX be better then? With 6 bolt, it’s a little more challenging. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. As mentioned, the two wheelset solution is great if each ride you do is clearly compartmentalized. Cookies help us deliver our Services. For sure spacing over the rotor slightly so they align the same for both wheel sets is an option. My rims won’t allow for less than 30mm. I really need a set of 700C tyres for that? Also, it's the only bike with a thru-axle which translates to a stiffer front end... great for offroad conditions. I loved it!” Bikes. A "road" bike, other than the most lightly built, can handle a well-packed gravel road/trail with minimal loose gravel. I would prefer 2 wheel set too. I did my research. Hi Ulli, sorry, that was an editing error. Thanks again in advance! Great handling doesn't necessarily make you fast, but for some riders it really does add an intangible quality to the riding experience (until you hit gravel and "lively" becomes "nerve wracking"). If you ever want to use a tire bigger than a slick 30mm you'll need a gravel bike. bike Adventure: 650b Roval CX32 w/48c Rene Herse Juniper Ridge. Is it possible to change between an 11-42 cassette on my off road wheels, and a 3t’s 9-32 cassette on my road wheels? The net effect depends on the rim and other influences so hard to say (if you use a skinny rim, the 38mm tire will be terrible aerodynamically, if you use a dedicated wide rim (the Discus 45|40 LTD, it’s a different story). I have two wheelsets that i swap on my Specialized Diverge (hydraulic brakes), one for road and another for gravel. They're a dream for bikepacking, hauling weight up hills and the like, but they're generally going to run out of gearing on pavement. Looking at pictures it seems with 26 inch wheels 2.8 inch or maybe even 3.0 tires with tight clearances could fit an Exploro. And that may also mean that you modify that top gear a little bit after all. What can I say, I like the wheels but of course I am a bit biased. But an average gravel bike will be significantly different than am average endurance road bike. bikes but the same principle applies. Hello Gerard, I have a XS gravel bike, it comes standard with 650c wheels and 40 mm G-one bite tyres. Not using my road bike half as much as I used to, was thinking of selling and getting a gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels, for road and off road. See more about this on the Superghiaia page. By using our services, you agree to our use of cookies. Again many choices, alloy or carbon, aero or light, some of which are a matter of budget. I’ve been testing wheel sets now (650b and 700c) and found out that the 650b works good for me, but I need more rim inner width, preferably somewhere between 25 an 30 mm. Hello. For gearing I went the other way around. That will probably answer your question. a small synopsis at the top of the specification listings. The frame will be a little heavier than the equiv road frame, but, the versatility of the gravel bike more than makes up for it, IMO. You can always make it work with some derailleur adjustment. No new rear derailleur and not even a new chain needed, you probably even have to shorten the current one. ... Zipp 303 Firecrest Tubeless Disc Brake Road Bike Wheels 790.00 From 729.00. The Journeyman uses QR skewers, and QR wheelsets are generally easier to find than 12mm thru axle wheelsets. I saw you mentioned if the derrailleur is set for an 11-50 it would work with an 11-39. (assuming the Discus Team Carbon accept them?) cycling, Press J to jump to the feed. Off-road. Right now my preference are the Easton wheels.. Hi Anders, the wheels that have everything I like in them are the 3T wheels, for the simple reason that I was involved in the design. Gravel bikes normally have a longer wheelbase and slacker angles than road bikes. I can’t seem to get the 11-39 to behave. Thanks. I say gravel bike with road wheels. I rode at least 10 different bikes at 4 different shops (they all carry different brands) before I found what was right for me. What would be the biggest tooth gap you’d consider acceptable between the lowest gears in each cassette? If you run 2x, you can find a similar gear range easily; there are too many options from various manufacturers to list them all concisely. As a side note, most gravel bikes will put you in a more upright position compared to a road bike. If you're easily faster than the slowest riders on a group ride on a road bike, you're still going to be faster than the slowest riders on a group ride on a gravel bike with roadworthy tires - they don't even have to be road tires, just gravel tires with a nice center patch that lacks big momentum-robbing knobbies. Cyclocross bikes seem to start a little higher than gravel bikes :-(. I live in a hilly area and pretty happy with the setup – I wouldn’t want to loose much at the hill climbing end anyway. The 40mm tires that came with my bike had a lot of good-sized, spaced-out, differently-shaped knobs along the center and shoulder of the tire. It's comfortable, can carry 4 panniers, plenty of eyelets for bottle cages, and still relatively speedy around town (about 40 lbs, I know heavy) but I can keep a 15-16mph pace with no problems. “Oh, but they spin so smoothly in my hands”. Good article. and focus on the quality of the bearings and seals quality rather than saving a few grams. One has 25mm slick for road. Has enough clearance for larger tires and it's a good looking bike. As for pedals, I personally always ride with MTB pedals and light MTB shoes. Riding your gravel bike also on the road: 2 wheelsets. I’ve heard of people having to readjust disk calipers every time they change wheels. It is impossible to find a cassette that has 10 as a smallest cog and than something below 40 on the other side. I am looking to get back into cycling after more than decade’s long hiatus. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, Discussion of everything bicycle related. It’s a bit scary how similar our minds think, though you may have influenced me subconsciously along the way! Should I buy a second set of rotors for the road wheelset or swap the rotor when swapping wheelset? Gravel bikes are a lot heavier than road bikes. It already comes with fenders, and probably will take a rear rack the best. There is no guarantee, but more than likely that’s the wheel you want. Hi Bas, that’s impossible on any gravel bike with narrow road cranks, regardless of wheel diameter. Happy customer. What is a gravel bike and why do I need one? I got why they might not roll well on pav… 11-39 Rotor cassette. Hi Mikey, just noticed your comment was stuck in the moderation bin, no idea why. In this guide, you’ll find all the facts and … I’ve been looking at a Surly Straggler as well, but the price is a little further up there than I’d like. For example, you might run a 1x setup with an 11-36T cassette on the road, and then switch to an 11-40 or 11-42T off-road. Our goal is pretty simple, we never want to see a wheel back. It is very difficult to find a set of cassettes that achieve this. It would be a lot easier to go with the 11-50T and set up the derailleur that. Anyway yes, that’s a very nice road tire with a very terrible name. They’re can be worse than gravel roads. I figured it out. So now that you have all that clearance on your gravel bike, why not use it to give yourself some more paved comfort? I’m trying to get somewhere near this with the 1x setup. But who wants to change their chainring all the time? I have an Open U.P. If you plan to swap wheels regularly, a setup that keeps the same chainring and chain length is preferred. So dirt can enter easily. If you have some budget but not unlimited, put your money in the road wheels, save some money on the off-road wheels. I don’t mind buying more chains (I keep track and measure them or wear). Otherwise, you might just be trying to wade through all the marketing jargon to see if 650B is a good fit for you. I’d like to add the 35mm Panaracer Gravel King TLC to the tyre options, if I may.
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